28.10.08

Three kilograms of clementines, or, supporting the Spanish economy.

The interstice between autumn and winter is, without a doubt, my favorite time of year. Maple trees in New England suddenly transform into brilliant, leafy rainbows; mornings dawn crisp, cool, and wispy with fog; bright, sunny afternoons entice the most reclusive computer lab hermits to take a walk around the lake; nighttime breezes with just a hint of chill are the perfect excuse to linger in the company of good friends and good tea. And the best part of it all is the arrival in the produce aisle of tiny, fresh, juicy, golden-orange orbs of pure deliciousness - it's clementine season.

Those of you who know me, are probably aware of my passion for - nay, obsession with - clementines. There's something very satisfying about digging my thumbnail into the rind of a new, unbroken fruit, and carefully peeling open the sphere in half. Each new orange represents a small challenge of manual dexterity, that requires a combination of luck, precision, timing, and carefully applied force to extract the wedges undamaged. Of course, the reward is there no matter how much I botch up the opening - one bite and each vesicle yields up its juicy droplet of sweet-yet-tart clementine. Mmm.

So this weekend I went shopping for clementines, and came home with an enormous three kilogram bag. I've never seen this many clementines at once, apart from the produce section in supermarkets - I wasn't sure that I could even finish all of them! But three days later I've devoured all but two, and I'm already budgeting clementine purchases for the next week. I've been rationalizing it as extra doses of vitamin C to keep from catching everyone else's colds (doesn't seem to have worked, unfortunately) and as a healthier snack than popcorn or Nutella (Nocillo in Spain). I was also told in Japan that eating too many oranges would turn one's hands yellow, but it hasn't happened so far - knock on wood.

Side note - the clementine excursion was the second time I've been propositioned this year. I had intended to buy from a small business as opposed to a supermarket chain, so first I tried a small fruit stand on a side street near my apartment. There was a man sitting on a stool in front of the stand, so I assumed that he was the owner of the store. While I had my back to him and was looking at the fruit and inspecting the prices and the quality, he made a "tsk" noise at me. When I turned around, I realized that he couldn't talk - he had a hole in his trachea. He pointed at the clementines and showed me five fingers, which confused me because the sign clearly said "1,39 euro/kg". But when I turned back to the fruit, he "tsk"ed at me again. This time he showed the five fingers again, and then closed his fist and brought down to his groin, then pointed up the alley away from the main street. That's when I realized that he had been mouthing "minutos" - five minutes. Needless to say, I was incredibly skeeved out and left immediately.

I bought my clementines from the supermarket this time ... but the "Origen: España" sticker on the bag makes me feel slightly better.

22.10.08

Today's post is brought to you by the letter J

I learned the first part of the Arabic alphabet in class today! It's been a long time since I've had to learn a completely different writing system. This'll take some getting used to, especially since Arabic writing goes from right to left. The letters are written a little differently depending on whether they are a single letter (isolated form), or in the beginning, middle, or end of a word. Some letters can only connect to other letters on the right side, so letters that come after have to use the initial or the isolated form. Wikipedia has a chart that does a much better job of explaining it.

One of the letters in the alphabet is pronounced zai and written like so:

Looks a lot like the letter j in the romance language alphabet, doesn't it? Maybe this is stretching it, but I think the pronounciations are pretty similar too. This is why I love learning languages!

19.10.08

Lagos, Portugal

October 10th to 13th was a long weekend, so a big group of us went to a beautiful beach town on the southern tip of Portugal. The trip got off to a fairly bad start, as I missed my train from Córdoba to Sevilla and had to buy another ticket for a later train. I'd also been fighting sniffles all week, resulting in a visit to just about every single pharmacy in Córdoba to look for zinc supplements. Happily, zinc + 2 lemons a day + eight oranges over the weekend = not sick! And the horrible 6-hour bus ride from Sevilla to Lagos turned out to be totally worth it.

The boardwalk on the way to the cliffs:

Gorgeous beaches surrounded by rocks:

Stairs built into/cut out of the cliffs:

Weird, beautiful landscapes:

Rockslides and earthquakes:

A lonely-looking tree at the top of the hill:

A resort/restaurant on the side of the cliffs:

I also went kayaking for the first time:

And nearly got seasick (it's a bad idea to throw up while you're on the boat - better to hop off, throw up, then get back on), but my stomach settled while we stopped at a lovely beach on the way back:

The water was freezing cold, but we still played in the waves:

We stayed at the Monkey House, a hostel located in the historic part of town:

More pictures are available here and here.

We ended up staying one more night than we had planned, because the bus that we had planned to take back to Sevilla was already full by the time we got to the bus station, and the next one left at 6:30 the next morning. Lesson learned - always have a backup mode of transportation.

All in all, it was an incredible trip and I can't wait to go back!

8.10.08

Tour of Spain

Here are pictures from our tour of Spain during the first two weeks of September:

Salamanca, El Escorial, Segovia, and Madrid

Zaragoza and Barcelona

Sevilla

Córdoba

... Whew. I'm going to go through and post the highlights here at some point in the future, but for now this will have to do.

5.10.08

Classes

I'm taking five classes this semester, a decision which usually elicits the "are you crazy?!" response from people who ask. My program's classes started earlier than University classes, so I've already got a pretty good feel for them. Highlights include being shepherded into an unmarked white van with ten other students, driven for half an hour out of the city, and then told to wait outside a dimly lit storage warehouse in the middle of nowhere while the electricity was connected. Turns out we were attending the "practical" portion of archaeology class - we even got to touch a skull that was probably from around the 1100's!

The classes I'm taking this semester are:
Roman Andalusia*
Prehistory of the Iberian Peninsula
Andalusian Archaeology*
History of Photography
Arabic

The classes marked with an * are program classes - that is, they're taught in a more American format with only program students, more discussion, etc. The other classes are mainstream University classes run entirely by the Spanish system, which sometimes means not at all. About thirty Spanish, Erasmus, and programs students showed up to the first Prehistory lecture at 10:30 ... and waited ... and waited ... and waited for the professor to show up! After about an hour, everyone left except us program kids who naively knocked on the prof's office door. He showed us that he didn't actually have class until 11:30, by pointing to the last column on his schedule:
... I really hope he teaches better than he reads schedule charts.

Apertura

Yesterday was the opening ceremony for 2008-2009 classes at my university. This meant two solid hours of sitting in a pew listening to Powerpoint reports of last year's classes, and a bit of singing from the choir at the beginning and the end. At least there was food - dear god So. Much. Food. The food itself merits its own post at a future time when I remember to bring my camera.

Speaking of cameras, I'm taking a photography class this semester so hopefully the pictures here will have improved by the end of this year. In the meantime, the sky at sunset tonight was so pretty, I *had* to take a picture: